Enchanting Eel Cuisines

鰻、eels, 食べる喜び、joy of eating, foodie, Japanese cuisine, 清少納言、枕草子、The Pillow Book, Lady Sei Shonagon, うなぎ、博多、にほんご

Grilled eel with savory sauce/ 鰻の蒲焼、うざく、うまき、肝吸い

Something that is utterly enchanting; eels, aroma of Japanese pepper, jolly laughter, the time waiting for eels to be cooked, sitting in a tatami room, sipping green tea, and chatting congenially.

いとをかしなるもの、うなぎ、山椒の香り、弾ける笑い声、畳の間に座り、緑茶を啜り、和やかに話しながら、うなぎが料理されるのを待つ時間。

Read back The Pillow Book and think over lists of things, and I was associating something enchanting. Adoring court lady Sei Shonagon of 1,000 years ago who depicted something beautiful and fascinating and I appreciate this precious moment. Lady Sei Shonagon did not write about evil and pathetic things filled in the world that are sad, agonizing, tearful, and cunning.

枕草子を読み返し、ものづくしの描写を読み、私もまた、をかしなるものに想いをいたす。いつの世にも満ち満ちている、悲しみや苦しみや悪意や計略や悲惨さではなく、美しく心楽しい世界観を描き出した、一千年前の宮廷女房の清少納言に憧れながら、この時間をしみじみ有難いと思う。

In the COVID crisis, it was restricted to go eating out. And finally, we were able to go to an eel cuisine restaurant, that we’ve been looking forward for half a year. When looking at the tragic sides of the COVID, I was also depressed and trapped in the thoughts of sadness and agonies countless times. But I managed to survive through by making contacts with family and friends closely and encouraging one another. And I was given wisdom from those who have gone before us emitting light of hope in spite of experiencing rigorous and excruciatingly painful situations. And, I also desire to leave messages of hope.

世界的なコロナ禍にあり、外食の楽しみに大きな制限がかけられていた中、半年前から楽しみにしていた鰻を食べる会が、やっと実現した。コロナの悲惨に目を向ければ、数限りない悲しみや苦しみが胸に迫り、鬱々としたものに捉われて身動き出来なくなりそうになった時も折々あったけれど、それでも家族や友人達と連絡を密にとり、お互いを励ましあってなんとか過ごして来た。そして様々な状況下を生き抜き、どんなに厳しく苛烈な中にあっても、希望の光を放つ軌跡を残した先人達に力をもらって来た。また私も、何か希望を書き残して行けたらと願う。

In a book it is written eel cuisines are special for Japanese diet. 70% of eel fishery is eaten by Japanese in the world. The oldest record of eel cuisine for summer nutritious diet is written in the most ancient poetry of Japan “Manyo Shu”. ( “Manyo Shu” was written taking more than a hundred years and believed to be completed in around 806)

物の本によると、日本食の中で鰻食は特筆すべき文化だそう。世界で獲れる鰻の七割を日本人が食べているとのこと。鰻料理が夏の滋養食として食べられるようになったという記録は、日本最古の和歌集「万葉集」にある。(万葉集は百年以上の年月をかけて書かれ、806年頃に完成したとみられている)

Ishimaro
I declare to you
Catch an eel and eat it
People say it’s good

For summer weight loss
(Otomono Yakamochi)

石麻呂に 
吾れもの申す 
夏痩せに 
よしといふものぞ 
鰻とり食せ
(大伴家持
)

Eels became popular for the common people in Edo period (1600~1867) as laborer’s food. One theory says Hiraga Gennai who was an exceptional inventor made up a catch copy for promoting eels to eat for the dog days in midsummer. And there’s a hilarious story in rakugo: traditional comic storytelling. A stingy guy in a poor terrace house was eating a bowl of rice smelling aroma of grilling eels from the next door eel diner. Eels have been loved and cherished in Japanese culinary history for so long. Now that they turned to be expensive and eels fish-farmed in Japan are especially delicious, I can eat them only a couple of times a year. And it was definitely the most gorgeous dinner of the year.

鰻は江戸時代 (1600~1867) には労働者の食べ物として庶民に広がって行った。一説によると、奇妙キテレツな発明家であった平賀源内が鰻のキャッチコピーを考えて、土用の鰻を宣伝して行ったという話もある。そして、ケチな貧乏長屋の男の話で、隣の鰻屋の鰻を焼く匂いで米をかき込んでいたという落語もあるほど、鰻料理は日本人の暮らしに溶け込み、長い歴史を刻みながら愛され続けて来た食べ物だ。現在は高級料理となり、日本産の鰻は特に美味しいとされ、私が鰻を食べるのは年に一、二回。今回の鰻は、今年食べたものの中で間違いなく一番のご馳走だった。

Eel cooking in Kochi prefecture was salty, not sweet and savory one that I usually eat. Such a lovely nostalgia.

所変われば品変わる。高知県で食べた鰻は、甘いタレではなく塩辛いタレで焼き付けてあったのも懐かしい思い出。

Something utterly enchanting; delicious eels and the happy time enjoying them with loved ones laughing happily. We take care of each other and support one another. But you shouldn’t take it for granted. People around you care for you, and you care for them, and we live along loving each other. The most valuable lesson we learned from the COVID pandemic was the heart “to care for one another”. It is the most important, yet sometimes underestimated value. If you eat something delicious with others, it will be more delicious and worthy. And you wish you can share it with someone. I think people call it LOVE.

いとをかしなるもの、美味なる鰻と、それを食べながら幸せに笑い合うひととき。私達がお互いを気遣いあい、力になりたいと思うことは、決して当たり前のことではない。大切にされて、自分も周りの人達を大切にして、お互いに思いやりあって生きてゆく。コロナ禍を経験して学んだもっとも価値あるものは、ともすれば忘れられそうで、けれど一番大切な「お互いを思いやり合う心」だったかもしれない。美味しいものは、誰かと一緒に食べれば、もっと美味しい良きものになる。美味しいものを誰かに食べさせてあげたいと思う。人はそれを愛と呼ぶのだと思う。

Love and peace to the world.

世界に平和と愛がありますように。

参考文献
*「1日1ページ、読むだけで身につく日本の教養365」監修 齋藤孝 発行所 株式会社文響社

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